Strange Magic: Things To Do Outside Yosemite Valley

Hidden gem…diamond in the rough…best-kept secret…the list of superlatives is long when describing destinations off the beaten path. These spots provide a sense of discovery laced with adventure, not to mention bragging rights back home. With its iconic granite walls and towering waterfalls, the ever-popular Yosemite Valley may not qualify as a rare find (especially in summer), but the surrounding wilderness of Yosemite National Park is a whole other story.

As you explore outside of Yosemite Valley, a strange magic takes hold: forests thicken, sapphire lakes suddenly appear, and painted meadows ramp up into the cloud-dotted sky. It’s where rock-hopping Sierra Bighorn dance, fuzzy marmots sunbathe and Yosemite hikes range from meadow strolls to well-planned summits. From Hetch Hetchy to the High Country, and Western Yosemite to Southern Yosemite, you’ll find a mountain calm that washes away all those lowland concerns as you gaze across the rugged crown of the Sierra. Nature’s alchemy in its purest form.

Hetch Hetchy

Excitement mounts as you descend from the Hetch Hetchy Entrance and get your first glimpse of the mystical waters below.  Hetch Hetchy Reservoir evokes a feeling of “be here now” with its remote beauty, which is heightened by the fact that the 20-mile spur from Highway 120 ends at the shore’s edge. 

Whether you simply stroll along O’Shaughnessy Dam and read the interpretive signs or head through the rough-hewn tunnel along the Wapama Fall Trail, the proud edifice of massive Kolana Rock keeps you company from across Hetch Hetchy’s breezy blue waters. Note: Swimming and overnight stays are prohibited at Hetch Hetchy, but nearby accommodations can be found.

Yosemite High Country

Climbing skyward along Tioga Road (Highway 120) towards 9,943 ft Tioga Pass, the vastness of Yosemite National Park comes into sharp relief.  As you survey the remote ridges and pine-filled valleys you can feel the powerful geological forces that carved these granite escarpments over the millennia.  Boasting two dozen trailheads, Tioga Road serves as the launching point into Yosemite’s legendary backcountry, But if you left your tent at home, fret not — there are plenty of things to do for travelers of all ages and abilities.

The mountain lakes along Tioga Road each flaunts their own personality. The short hike to Lukens Lake is a “late-bloomer” due to its 8,200 ft elevation, revealing June/July wildflowers, as well as reflections of the surrounding forest on its placid waters.

The trail to May Lake is a steady but gentle climb through conifer forest and across slabs of the High Sierra’s signature granite. Looming above (and reflecting below) is 10,855 ft Mt. Hoffmann — the geographical center of Yosemite National Park — with its treeless slopes cascading down to the water’s edge.

The most challenging of the three is the hike to Dog Lake.  Nestled at 9,180 feet, the steep ascent from the Lembert Dome Picnic Area trailhead rewards hikers with a pretty, shallow lake that can “warm up” for summer swims as puffy cumulus float overhead.

Located at 8,150 feet just off Tioga Road, Tenaya Lake is easily accessed and boasts separate picnic areas at each end of its remarkably blue expanse. Its refreshing (some might say icy!) waters provide a full day of swimming, kayaking, sunbathing and walking along its far shore. 

A visit to the Lembert Dome Picnic Area near Tuolumne Meadows offers advanced snackers a two-fer: picnic beneath the “granite wave” that is Lembert Dome, and walk off that potato salad with the five-minute stroll to the historic Parsons Lodge & Soda Springs.

For those who just want to cruise the mountains and enjoy frame-worthy views, the High Country rewards visitors with numerous pull-over-and-peer options.  The roadside Olmsted Point Scenic Vista bestows a unique perspective: Half Dome and Clouds Rest looking southwest, and Tenaya Lake looking east. Photogs rejoice! The granite expanse here is a magnet for sunrises and sunsets. 

Climbing one of its “other domes” is an only-in-Yosemite activity that pays off with 360 degree views, while providing mano a granite contact with the Park’s unique geology.   Pothole Dome rises just over 200 ft and is a quickie that even families can enjoy, while Lembert Dome requires a bit more oomph to reach its 850 ft summit.

From the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, hikers and fly fishers alike regale the beauty of Lyell Canyon on the flat trail (1.5 miles out & back) to Twin Bridges where two wooden spans cross the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River.  This is part of the famed 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail that connects Mexico with Canada, and provides the cheeky opportunity to say “walked it!” to your friends back home.

Western Yosemite

Western Yosemite is an area of dramatic beauty where creeks, canyons and trails connect like spokes on nature’s wheel.  With “secret” waterfalls, lush spring meadows and a diversity of forests, it’s Yosemite’s last, wonderful, hurrah before rolling down the Sierra slope to the flatlands of the Central Valley.

While most recognize the big drops of Yosemite Valley, there are several lesser-known waterfalls in Western Yosemite worth exploring.  Located on the boundary of Yosemite National Park and Stanislaus National Forest, year-round Carlon Falls combines a relatively flat trail that’s the perfect distance (3 miles out & back) to feel like you’ve earned it.  The payoff is a multi-stage cascade that emerges from the surrounding trees, and swimming holes that appear as spring turns to summer.

The hidden enclave of Foresta offers a dynamic waterfall duo:  Foresta Falls and Little Nellie Falls. Though the drops are modest compared to the Valley giants, both waterfalls flow year-round and are proof that good things come in small packages.

The Cascades is a significant but elusive Yosemite waterfall that not many visitors know about. Its lower portion can be seen from the roadside viewpoint along Highway 140 (1.7 miles from the Arch Rock Entrance), while the upper portion can be seen from several pullouts along Highway 120.

The Sierra Nevada is renowned for its vast wooded slopes, and wandering through the arboreal medley of Western Yosemite bolsters that reputation with its variety of sun-dappled forests. The opportunity to “grove hop” beneath the gnarled branches and towering crowns of giant sequoia trees (Sequoiadendron giganteum) can be had at Merced Grove and nearby Tuolumne Grove, where short (somewhat steep) trails lead to a refuge of tranquility. Departing from the same trailhead as Merced Grove, visitors can “forest bathe” in the oxygen-rich air of Rockefeller Grove — the only stand of sugar pines in Yosemite.  Perfect for a short walk or Yosemite snowshoe come winter.

The mountain meadows of Western Yosemite provide a grand reveal as you emerge from the forest to be greeted by sunlight and swaying wildflowers.  A walk through these bubbles of biodiversity (not to mention a Yosemite picnic) is a time-honored pastime at the three meadows along Highway 120 (Ackerman; Hodgdon and Crane Flat) while the visitors can check out the historic McCauley & Meyer Barns located in Foresta Meadow farther up the road.

Southern Yosemite

When it comes to things to do outside of Yosemite Valley, the Southern Yosemite region offers a well-balanced diet of off-the-beaten-path activities. From churning waterfalls to easily-climbed domes, and Yosemite history to the biggest of the big trees, exploring the many attractions along Highway 41 is an official Yosemite “travel hack” for those in the know.

Though the Glacier Point overlook is a popular Yosemite destination, there are other stops along Glacier Point Road with a bit more room to roam. The trail to Dewey Point brings hikers (and snowshoers!) to the southern rim of Yosemite Valley, where you can have a face-to-face encounter with El Capitan while gazing down 3,000 feet to the Valley floor. The granite watchtower that is Sentinel Dome provides 360 degree views of Yosemite Valley below and the High Country to the east, and is home to the wind-carved Jeffrey pine made famous in a photograph by Ansel Adams.  Your own pics welcomed and encouraged.

Wawona is a friendly enclave with the South Fork of the Merced River peacefully winding through.  Boasting hundreds of cabin rentals, it’s a worthy option for those who want the comforts of home, not to mention a diverse selection of things to do.  The multi-staged Chilnualna Falls plays peek-a-boo along the steep trail, its year-round flow a rival to some of the Valley’s most iconic drops.  Yesteryear buffs get their fix at the Yosemite History Center, with its outdoor exhibits, relocated structures and interpretive signs dotting the forest as you wander through.

Yosemite’s biggest grouping of arboreal titans can be found at Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. As you loop through its many trails, say hey to such luminaries as the Fallen Monarch, the Grizzly Giant and the California Tunnel Tree.

Tips For Exploring Outside of Yosemite Valley

• Tioga Road (High Country) and Glacier Point Road close due to snow, so be sure to check road status before you embark.
• While day hikes are fine, all camping/overnight stays in the Yosemite backcountry require a Wilderness Permit.
• Dogs are allowed in specified areas within the Park.  Be sure to check when planning your dog-friendly trip.
• Store all food (including ice chests) and scented materials in the bear bins at parking areas. Do not leave even the smallest item in your car — bears are masters in the art of burglary!
• Help reduce impacts on Yosemite Valley by exploring the rest of the Park, and check out these tips on how to travel responsibly on your visit.
• There are limited services outside of Yosemite Valley.  Be sure to gas up and bring food & water.
• For the widest selection of dining, shopping and services, consider one of  Yosemite’s gateway towns as your trusted basecamp.