The Backpacker’s Bookend: Making The Most of Yosemite’s Gateway Towns

The backpacking dictionary is filled with lingo all its own: distance and elevation gain; trailheads and waypoints; water filters and shelters; bag fill and pack weight. But there’s one oft-overlooked entry that deserves to be part of the lexicon: the Backpacker’s Bookend.

Simply put, the Backpacker’s Bookend is a guarantee and a reward.  A guarantee that arriving the night before will help your trip get off to a smooth start, and a reward of tasty food and comfortable accommodations after those hard-earned miles on the trail.

With epic treks such as the John Muir Trail (part of the renowned Pacific Crest Trail) and countless other multi-day journeys running through Yosemite, the Park’s gateway towns are situated perfectly to make the Backpacker’s Bookend a reality.

Before You Bookend

The key to a successful Bookend is knowing your map.  Yosemite’s best-equipped gateway towns are located in Central Mariposa County along Hwy 140 on the approach to the Arch Rock Entrance (Mariposa, Midpines, El Portal) and along Hwy 41 just outside the Yosemite’s South Entrance (Fish Camp). Here you’ll find comfy accommodations, groceries, gas/EV charging, restaurants and, yes, spa treatments.

Bookend #1: The Smooth Embark

Every backpacker knows that a long drive to the trailhead can be like a rock in your boot. By the time you take that first step everything just feels a little gritty. So how do you keep your load light and your tootsies granite-free?  Stay the night at a comfortable hotel closer to the trailhead and hit the trail before everybody else.

By staying in a gateway town the night before your big hike, you can arrange your pack in the comfort of your hotel room, grab a bite to eat, take that one last shower, and know that you’ll be fresh for your early morning departure. No more fumbling with your pack on a darkened roadside or settling for a cold protein bar on the drive up. Bookend #1 complete!

The Main Event: Backpacking In Yosemite

Backpacking in Yosemite is legendary. From the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne to the John Muir Trail, and the constellation of rivers, lakes and meadows along the route of the High Sierra Camps (not to mention the less visited peaks of Southern Yosemite), the dynamic range of terrains and experiences is unforgettable.

Due to Yosemite’s popularity as a world-class destination, all overnight stays in the backcountry require a wilderness permit. The permits are based on a quota system and secured in advance several different ways depending on the season.  Tioga Road (Hwy 120) and Glacier Point trailheads begin at much higher elevations than those in Yosemite Valley, Hetch Hetchy and Wawona. Wherever you go in the Park, the topography is distinct so check out the Yosemite trailheads map and start exploring!

Be sure to pack the necessary gear for both the season and the duration of your trip (including a water filter and bear canister).  Elevations range from 2,100 ft to over 13,000 ft in Yosemite which can lead to drastic temperature differences. The basic rule (called the lapse rate) is a loss of 3.5 degrees for every 1,000 ft climb in elevation. This means that you need to bring plenty of layers to stay warm, not to mention a waterproof shell.

Without a doubt Yosemite possesses a unique — yet sometimes fragile — beauty.  For this reason we’ve put together our Nature Rules! tips on how to protect the Park’s natural grandeur.  From fire safety to wildlife etiquette, taking care of our public lands guarantees that they will be enjoyed by generations to come.

Bookend #2: The Triumphant Return

The physical demands of a Yosemite backpacking trip are sure to leave you feeling “good tired.” After you get off the trail nothing sounds better than a hot shower, a soft mattress and beverage with a little more oomph than filtered water. Yosemite’s gateway towns once again to the rescue for your triumphant return.

There are several options for Bookend #2. Full-service resorts such as Tenaya at Yosemite in Fish Camp and the Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort in Midpines offer on-site restaurants, not to mention health spas where post-hike self-care such as soaks, steams and massages are guaranteed to soothe.  You’ve been on the move so why not park yourself in one spot for a night or two?

Hotels along Hwy 140 are the closest to Yosemite’s western Arch Rock Entrance and provide quick relief with comfy beds, hot tubs and on-site dining.  The Yosemite View Lodge is perched along the Merced River, while the Yosemite Cedar Lodge can be found six miles downstream.  Get those boots off, shower up and relax.

For the widest selection of accommodations, dining and nightlife, the historic gateway town of Mariposa is an obvious choice for your “we did it” celebration. From local sips to live music, and breakfast burritos to fine dining, there is a vibe and price point for everyone.

Bookends All Around

While the Backpacker’s Bookend makes perfect sense for your multi-night backpacking trip, you don’t need to cover dozens of miles and bag a bunch of peaks to enjoy its benefits. The Bookend is equally on-point for the Yosemite Mariposa County day hiker. Find that hotel near your trailhead knowing that a spa treatment after your Mist Trail adventure will feel just as soothing, and that BBQ and a cold beer after you wander through Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias will taste just as delicious. Heck, why stop there? For the winter adventurer, there’s nothing like a fire pit and hot toddy after a full day of skiing Badger Pass or snowshoeing the snow-kissed peaks and lush green forests of the Park. Four seasons of bookends!